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Dive! Hiroshima 官方向導

Dive! Hiroshima 官方向導

    通過食物來瞭解日本的地方-過去和現在-沒有更好的方法.廣島擁有沉重而沉重的歷史,往往掩蓋其他一切。然而,在日本人中,廣島也因其美食而聞名:廣島是廣島喜好燒(一種美味的煎餅,後來更多)的發源地,這是二戰之後確定的時代。廣島也是一個較大的縣的中心地區,名稱相同,與內海的長邊界界定。海岸線穿插着漁村。從這些水域中提取各種美味佳餚,其中包括日本三分之二的牡蠣。



    十年前,作為揹包客,我去過廣島,像大多數遊客一樣,衝過景點。我錯過了一些潛在的美食,也錯過了看到廣島另一邊的機會-它的重要一面。當廣島縣邀請我來品嚐當地飲食文化的時候,我不能説不。這一次,我會做正確的。獎金:他們甚至讓我選擇我想去的地方。

    START

    上野-阿那子

    1/5

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    我 的名單上第一個是上 ,在宮島口,這是一個旅遊小鎮,距離廣島市 30 分鐘路程,那裏的船隻起飛到風景如畫的島嶼宮島。在上個世紀初,當鐵路第一次抵達宮島時,上野谷吉有了一個想法。

    將 廣島灣海域常見的鰻魚(鰻魚)放在米飯上,然後將其作為盒裝午餐包裝在火車乘客的時候。

    時人們並沒有考慮到太多的鰻魚,因為它的脂肪肉是首選的鰻魚。精簡的 anago 出光,熟時幾乎蓬鬆(實際上,你可能會喜歡它更好,因為它不是油性)。

    自 上野以來的一個世紀裏,隨着替代原始的便當亭的店鋪被稱為 —— 開業後,阿納子的尊重不斷提高。

    上 野的招牌料理「鰻魚蓋飯」現在被認為是當地特產。有許多宮島餐廳供應。在夏季和週末,在上野等待一個小時的餐桌並不罕見。

    餐 廳的古老木製外觀,常春藤穿過二樓的格子,也是其魅力的一部分。這是宮島口火車站和渡輪碼頭之間的混凝土建築物中的一個亮點。內部是所有的木材,磨損光滑的年。

    在一

    個漆碗裏,在一個米飯上放滿了三個或四個鰻魚的肉蓋飯。細長的鰻魚首先烤制,然後蘸上甜鹹醬油釉。

    上 野的廚師每次製作一批新的醬汁,他們將它與舊醬混合在一起,形成了一個擁有 100 年歷史的永無止境的鍋。

    如 果你厭倦了普通的白米飯,你可以在這裏享用一個美食:米飯是用鰻魚的頭煮沸而成的高湯蒸煮而成的,以深海的味道香味。

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    Kakiya-牡蠣

    2/5

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    從 宮島口出發,乘坐渡輪約 10 分鐘即可到達宮島。島上以擁有數百年歷史的浮鳥居門以及最近的燒烤牡蠣而聞名。

    在 廣島灣栽培牡蠣已有 400 多年歷史。

    燒 烤爐一直是當地的主食,對於長時間放在水上的漁民和女性來説,這是一個快速簡單的餐點。

    然 後,本土兒子林由二開始賣給遊客。現在,在宮島的主要觀光地帶排列着燒烤爐的店鋪,在空氣中充滿了鹽水色的煙霧。

    但 是沒有一個像林先生那樣的節目,他們在烤架後 40 年後,現在有自己的地方: 柿屋

    他 用高熱量烤牡蠣 — 沒關係舔他雙手的火焰和偶爾爆發的貝殼和果汁,他必須躲避。

    廣 島牡蠣很小,有點甜,液體含量低(所以在烹飪時不會縮小),只要快速煮熟,就非常適合燒烤。

    高 温也可以追捕貝殼,使豐滿的,蒸牡蠣裏面的煙燻完成。

    於日本鄉村觀光小島而言,柿屋非常時尚。它擁有現代、簡約的外觀:白色牆壁鑲有深色木質橫樑和桌子,點燈和玻璃正面。

    除 了燒烤爐外,餐廳還提供各種牡蠣料理,其中包括牡蠣蓋飯等。

    就 像上野的稻米飯一樣,柿飯也用高湯蒸煮而成,這次是用牡蠣汁製成的。

    此 外,還有豐富的葡萄酒和清酒的杯子。當經理來到我們的桌子推薦當地釀造,烏後之月(意思是「雨後的月亮」),

    我 受到嚴重的誘惑。但是以後會有很多清酒喝...

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    北吉-居酒屋

    3/5

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    Hiroshima is one of Japan’s major sake producing regions and its Saijō district is ranked among the top three (the other two are Nada in Kobe and Fushimi in Kyoto, in case you’re curious).

    Sampling some of this prestigious jizake (local sake) was my mission for the evening. Back in downtown Hiroshima we headed for the main eating and drinking district, Nagare-kawa and Hodori.

    There’s something for everyone here: bars, clubs, pachinko and karaoke parlours, and, of course, plenty of izakaya (Japanese-style pubs).

    My pick for the evening, an izakaya called Kitayoshi, is located inside the covered shopping arcade(Hon-dōri).

    Covered shopping arcades(Shotengai) are emblematic of post-WWII Japan, but Kitayoshi is going for something a little more traditional: The entrance, marked by a giant paper lantern, is reached via a flight of stone steps.

    At the top of the stairs is a giant tank of Ugo no Tsuki – which does seem to be the local drink – direct from the brewery .

    The namazake (unpasteurized sake) has just the slightest hint of carbonation and a lightly fruity, clean taste ­- very easy to drink. It’s also an easy match for anything on the menu at Kitayoshi.

    There are plenty of rough and tumble places to eat and drink in Hiroshima. Kitayoshi, on the other hand, is a pretty classy place. It has a long wooden counter lit by ceramic lamps shaped like half-moons.

    There’s a large vase of sunflowers on one end. At another end, set into the counter, is a display of fish on ice. Kitayoshi gets fresh fish every morning straight from Hiroshima’s fish market.

    Today they’ve got sanma (Pacific saury), kinmeidai (splendid alfonsino or golden eye snapper) – I love kinmeidai – and tachiuo (scabbard fish), which the chefs will grill over charcoal. They do a local seafood sashimi platter, too.

    We finished off the meal with some classic Japanese comfort food: suji nikomi (stewed tendon) and motsu nikomi (stewed intestines). It’s much better than it sounds (and, no, that’s not just the sake talking).

    *Visited in August 2013.

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    三禪總本店-御好燒

    4/5

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    第 二天,我們的第一個目的地是廣島最著名的御好燒餐廳「三禪宗本店」。

    御 好燒是用捲心菜和肉類或海鮮製成的美味煎餅,但在廣島,它們有一種特殊的製作方式,叫做廣島御好燒。

    廣 島御好燒不是用薄薄的縐紗開始,而不是混合在一起的厚薄煎餅。

    除 此之外,還有一大堆捲心菜,其次是肉類或海鮮、炒麪和一個雞蛋(加醬和海藻片 —— 還有很多事情)。

    Mitchan 發明瞭廣島的招牌料理「廣島御好燒」。這家店開始於二戰後的年代,作為一個食品攤位,銷售裝滿葱並用報紙包裹的小薄餅。

    這 是一個父親和兒子的操作,兒子,他的綽號是 Mitchan,想出了一堆想法,使他們的產品更具吸引力的客户。最後,他在被稱為「廣島御好燒」的獲勝組合下車。

    我 被吸引到 Mitchan 的歷史,但擔心它可能太出名了,最終成為一個旅遊陷阱的地方。

    在 路上的出租車司機向我保證,當地人實際上在那裏吃飯,我很高興看到一羣人(沒有攝像頭或指南)已經在餐廳前面形成了幾分鐘前它打開。

    事 實證明,Mitchan 並不滿足於它的桂冠,它非常重視廣島御好燒的準備工作。

    在 普通的御好燒餐廳,顧客經常在餐桌上的電爐上自己製作煎餅。但是,廣島御好燒太複雜,不能由業餘愛好者製作。

    Mitchan 的廚師花了幾年的時間磨練他們的技能。

    他 們從來沒有畢業於切白菜 (Mitchan 經歷 200 公斤的白菜在忙碌的一天); 經理旋轉它們,以便他們保持聯繫過程的每一個階段。

    Mitchan 的廣島御好燒讓我印象最深刻的是,每一層都是正確的:捲心菜仍然是多汁的,麪條 al dente,還有雞蛋公司還沒有橡膠。

    還 是廚師讓這一切看起來休閒和有趣。

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    津富士-拉麪

    5/5

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    After lunch, we returned to the coast, this time heading west. Our destination: Onomichi, a seaside town with a high concentration of old temples and a general atmosphere of days long past. It’s often used as a set for movies (most notably Yasujirō Ozu’s Tokyo Story). But what really draws visitors is the ramen.

    Ambling around the temples we saw a smattering of other tourists here and there. When we passed a ramen shop, we saw a whole line of them.

    Onomichi ramen uses a soy sauce seasoned stock that has also been flavored with a variety of small fish pulled from the Inland Sea.

    To this a layer of liquid lard is added – which admittedly sounds awful – but makes for a thicker, richer soup. The noodles are thin and round.

    The toppings are classic: a handful of scallions, bamboo shoots, and a few pieces of tender pork.

    Beyond that, ramen joints here are classified into two categories: the ones that go by Onomichi ramen (the new ones jumping on the bandwagon) and the ones that go by chuka-soba (“Chinese noodles,” the word for ramen throughout much of the 20th century before it became a thing).

    The place I wanted to visit, Tsutafuji, falls into the latter category. Like Mitchan, Tsutafuji dates to the post-WWII era; it’s been in business for 60 plus years.

    It also originated as a street stall before upgrading to a brick-and-mortar shop. There are still only about a dozen seats, and the kitchen is smaller than the one in my one-bedroom Tokyo apartment.

    It’s a scruffy place (and that’s being polite). But from my experience, this is generally the best sort of ramen shop. Others would seem to agree: There are dozens of celebrity signings on the wall.

    The chef, who took over from his father, is a man of little words. He wears a towel twisted around his forehead to keep the sweat off his face (an air conditioner and several fans work overtime to counteract the two large boiling pots).

    When the sole waitress brought my ramen to the counter, the soup came exactly to the lip of the bowl and not a drop is spilled.

    It was hot and burned the roof of my mouth but it was delicious so I kept shoveling it in. (In my defense: Ramen is best eaten piping hot, before the noodles start to go limp)

    “What’s your secret?” I asked the chef, between mouthfuls.There isn’t one: “I’m just trying to keep the original taste going. If people like that then I’m happy,” he said.

    There’s definitely something attractive about that – about experiencing a particular time and place through food (in this case, a little seaside town circa 1950). From the centuries-old traditions of oysters and sake to the more recent invention of Hiroshima Okonomiyaki, Hiroshima offers plenty of opportunities to do just that.

    Veronica Robertson is an American writer based in Tokyo since 2002. She writes about travel in Japan and Japanese culture for newspapers, magazines, and websites. Always in search of new tastes (and onsen), she’s visited nearly every prefecture in Japan.

    August 25, 2013

    *Visited in August 2013.

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